Although Moses-in-the-Cradle plants can be quite adaptable to various environments, they are still quite susceptible to a variety of issues. As long as the problem hasn’t engulfed the entire plant, you should be able to revive it and bring it back to full health with the right methods.

In this post, we will be going through each of the most common issues for Moses-in-the-Cradle plants (including brown and yellow leaves and leggy growth) as well as how to treat each issue and prevent it from happening again in future.

Causes of brown Moses-in-the-Cradle leaves

1. Overwatering.

   If you notice that your Moses-in-the-Cradle is developing dark brown patches on its leaves, a common cause of this is overwatering. If not caught quickly, this can often be a killer for your Moses-in-the-Cradle. If you think you might have overwatered your Moses-in-the-Cradle it’s important to check the soil right away and change it out completely if necessary. Moving forward, to avoid more brown leaves, make sure to allow enough time for the potting mix to dry out and it’s also a good idea to get into the habit of picking up your plant before and after watering to get a feel for how heavy it is when it needs more water.

2. Underwatering.

   Another cause of brown leaves on a Moses-in-the-Cradle plant is actually a lack of water. Although both extremes can cause the same issue, there are actually some distinct differences to look out for that will help you spot why there are brown leaves on your plant. A lack of water will cause light brown leaves that look and feel quite crispy. Check the potting mix before adjusting how often you water your plant.

3. Heat sensitivity.

   If watering isn’t the cause of the brown leaves on your Moses-in-the-Cradle plant, then it’s worth looking into some other factors, such as temperature. If exposed to high levels of heat, it can dry out some of your plant’s leaves causing brown patches. This can happen if your plant is Moses-in-the-Cradle is too close to radiators, heating vents, cookers or simply too close to a window that is getting a lot of direct light. Use a digital thermometer to monitor the temperature to prevent more brown leaves.

4. Direct sunlight.

   As we mentioned above, direct sunlight can also cause brown patches on your Moses-in-the-Cradle. This can not only happen because of hotspots that form near windows which dry out the plants, but also because the leaves can get burnt. If this is the cause of the brown leaves, you’ll notice the brown patches form on the leaves of the plant facing the window.

5. Lack of humidity.

   Dry air can cause brown leaf tips on your Moses-in-the-Cradle if the issue goes on for too long. The best thing to do here is to buy a humidity monitor as this will help you keep track of any fluctuations. There are a few great ways to increase the humidity for your plant and prevent more brown leaves. These include misting the plant, using a pebble tray, moving to a more humid room such as the bathroom or using a humidifier.

Causes of Moses-in-the-Cradle Yellow Leaves

1. Overwatering.

   If you suspect that your Moses-in-the-Cradle is turning yellow due to too much water and root rot. The best thing to do is to take your plant out of its pot immediately and inspect the root system. If the potting mix is still quite soggy and waterlogged, it’s important that you replace it immediately. Waiting for it to naturally dry out risks more damage to the plant, and more yellow leaves on your Moses-in-the-Cradle. Moving forward, to help your Moses-in-the-Cradle recover and to prevent more of the leaves from turning yellow, adjust your watering schedule so you are only keeping a little bit of moisture in the soil, rather than it being soggy.

2. Leaf rot.

   If the leaves on your Moses-in-the-Cradle are wet then it might be leaf rot that is causing the yellow leaves. Accidentally splashing the leaves of your plant when watering might not seem like a big deal, but if paired with low temperatures it can cause the leaf to rot which shows up as yellow patches. There is no reversing this issue so it’s best to remove the worst affected leaves and be careful not to let the leaves get wet.

Moses-in-the-Cradle plants can lose leaves for a variety of reasons

1. Cold temperatures.

   Extreme temperatures and drafts can also be very harmful and this can definitely be causing your Moses-in-the-Cradle to lose leaves. Make sure your plant is not placed near doors or windows that may be drafty. This is particularly damaging during the long cold nights so we recommend picking up a digital thermometer to check the temperature across the day and night in various spots in your home. This will make sure that you don’t place your Moses-in-the-Cradle in a spot that is too cold as this should fix the issue and you shouldn’t see any more leaves falling off.

2. Shock or stress.

   It’s not just cold temperatures that can shock your Moses-in-the-Cradle. If you have recently moved house or moved your plant to a new spot this may also be the cause of your Moses-in-the-Cradle losing leaves. The initial shock should wear off over a few days and your Moses-in-the-Cradle will also only ever lose a few leaves due to environmental shock so keep an eye on the number and rate of leaves falling off. If the problem persists then you may need to go through some of the other more serious causes.

3. Natural ageing.

   If your Moses-in-the-Cradle is only losing a few leaves each year then this might simply be down to natural ageing. This happens when your plant needs to focus its energy on growing new growth so will lose some of its smallest and oldest leaves. Monitor the rate of leaf drop to see if it’s starting to accelerate as this would suggest there is another cause.

Causes of a drooping Moses-in-the-Cradle

1. Overwatering.

   If your Moses-in-the-Cradle plant’s root system has begun to rot as a result of overwatering, this can cause the entire plant to droop. This happens because the root system is unable to deliver the needed oxygen, nutrients and moisture to the plant so it becomes a little limp. Check the potting mix to see if it needs replacing and adjust your watering schedule moving forward.

2. Cold temperatures.

   Other than watering, the other common cause of a drooping Moses-in-the-Cradle is shock caused by cold air. If your plant is close to a drafty window, door or AC vent then this constant stream of cool air can be quite damaging. To solve the issue and prevent your Moses-in-the-Cradle from drooping more in future, monitor the temperature around your plant.

Why does my Moses-in-the-Cradle plant have curling leaves?

1. Underwatering.

   If you have noticed that your Moses-in-the-Cradle has curling leaves, then this signals a lack of moisture. Plants often curl their leaves as this helps them to retain moisture. It’s important to check the moisture levels in the soil before adjusting your watering schedule. If underwatered, giving your Moses-in-the-Cradle plenty of water should help the leaves uncurl in the next few days.

Why is my Moses-in-the-Cradle leggy?

1. Lack of sunlight

   Low light level is the number one reason why Moses-in-the-Cradle plants become leggy. This can naturally happen quite often during winter because the light level is lower but if your Moses-in-the-Cradle is developing leggy growth in summer, then you’ll need to relocate your plant.

   Moving your plant closer to the window will help avoid any leggy growth during summer.

   But when it comes to leggy growth on your Moses-in-the-Cradle during winter, this is somewhat unavoidable. We recommend investing in a grow light which can help to supplement light during the darker months of the year. You may also want to prune the leggy growth in spring to help your plant focus on developing new growth and it’ll help your plant look fresher too.

Those are the most common problems that Moses-in-the-Cradle plants face. When it comes to solving the problems, it becomes easier the sooner you catch the problem. This is why we strongly recommend you keep a close eye on your Moses-in-the-Cradle and other houseplants to give you the best chance at spotting issues early.

To learn more about how to best care for your plant and prevent these issues from happening again in future, check out our Moses-in-the-Cradle care guide.

One of the most popular Pothos plants, the Marble Queen Pothos shines through with their incredible variegated and heart-shaped leaves. As a family, Pothos plants aren’t the fussiest houseplants and we often recommend them for more inexperienced plant parents or for spaces with less than ideal environments. However, their hardiness doesn’t make them immune to any issues whatsoever and it can still be frustratingly common for issues such as brown or yellow leaves to develop on your Marble Queen Pothos.

In this post, we will cover some of the most common problems that you might face with a Marble Queen Pothos. We will outline tips on how to diagnose and treat the problem but also how you can prevent it from harming your plant again in future.

Causes of brown Marble Queen Pothos leaves:

1. Dry air can cause brown leaf tips.

   Humidity is one of those things that is often forgotten as it’s not as obvious as sunlight or water. Often our homes can have quite dry air, especially in the winter months when we have the heating on for most of the day. If the humidity level around your Marble Queen Pothos is very low for a prolonged period of time, then this can start to cause brown leaf tips on your plant. You can use a humidity monitor to confirm the issue and then get into the habit of regularly misting your plant to increase the humidity.

2. Overwatering.

   This is another common cause of brown leaves on a Marble Queen Pothos and can cause the leaves and stems to turn quite soft and dark brown in colour. If you suspect overwatering is the cause, take your plant out o its pot to inspect the root system and potting mix. Replace any waterlogged soil and trim off any rotten roots to allow your Marble Queen Pothos to begin to recover. In future, to avoid more brown leaves developing on your Marble Queen Pothos as a result of overwatering, use a moisture meter to ensure that the soil has had time to dry out before watering.

3. Underwatering can also cause brown leaves.

   If the leaves on your Marble Queen Pothos have turned light brown, and feel dry and crispy, then you may not be watering your plant enough. Before you go and drown your Marble Queen Pothos in water, you need to make sure that this is actually the issue. If the soil is very dry and powdery then your plant will need more water. Slowly reintroduce water to your plant over the course of a week rather than all in one go to avoid your plant going into shock.

4. Direct light.

   If your Marble Queen Pothos is exposed to a lot of direct light during summer then this can dry out the plant and the leaves and cause them to turn brown. This will often appear as patches across the plant. This tends to only be an issue during summer as the sun is a lot stronger and out for more of the day.

5. Lack of light.

   The opposite issue to direct light can also turn your Marble Queen Pothos brown. Although Marble Queen Pothos plants can grow in a variety of light conditions, they will start to turn brown if they aren’t getting enough light. Find a spot in your home with enough indirect light but avoid direct sunshine during summer.

6. Cold temperatures.

   Marble Queen Pothos don’t like rapid changes in temperature, so you should make sure you keep them out of areas that are often drafty, for example, drafty doors, windows or air conditioning vents. If your Marble Queen Pothos is exposed to a constant stream of cold air, then this can slowly turn the leaves brown. It won’t happen from one day to another as they can tolerate a level of cold air but over time this can become an issue. Try moving your Marble Queen Pothos to a spot with a consistent temperature and keep an eye on any changes for a few weeks. Investing in a digital thermometer will really help you in preventing more brown leaves.

Causes of yellow leaves on a Marble Queen Pothos:

1. Overwatering.

   Too much water tends to be the most common reason why Marble Queen Pothos plants develop yellow leaves so we always recommend starting here when diagnosing the problem. If you accidentally overwater or have a problem with drainage then the roots may start to rot. This prevents your Marble Queen Pothos from getting any of the needed nutrients which causes yellowing in the leaves. Confirm the problem by inspecting the soil and root system to see if the roots have started to rot.

   To avoid more yellow leaves adjust your watering schedule moving forward so that you are either watering your Marble Queen Pothos less frequently or giving it less water each time you do.

2. A pest infestation can cause yellow spots.

   If you notice small yellow spots across the leaves of your Marble Queen Pothos then could definitely be a sign of pests. Check your plant thoroughly for pests or any other signs (brown spots, small holes in the leaves, white webbing or powder across the plant). To treat the issue, spray your plant with neem oil daily for a week and trim off the worst affected leaves.

3. Natural ageing.

   If your Marble Queen Pothos is only losing a couple of its oldest leaves at the top of the vines, then this might just be natural ageing. As your Marble Queen Pothos gets older, it will prioritise new bigger growth and will drop some of its smallest and oldest leaves to save energy. These leaves will often turn yellow and then fall off your plant. This is totally normal and nothing for you to be worried about.

A Marble Queen Pothos can lose leaves due to:

1. Overwatering.

   Alongside other issues such as yellow or brown leaves, your Marble Queen Pothos can also lose leaves due to overwatering. This often suggests that the issue has progressed quite far so it’s important you react immediately. Replace any waterlogged soil and trim away any roots that have started to rot. These will be soft to touch and look very dark in colour.

2. Cold temperatures.

   Another reason why your Marble Queen Pothos is losing leaves is due to temperature stress. This usually happens in tandem with some brown leaves. We recommend using a digital thermometer to keep tabs on the temperature fluctuations that might be causing your Marble Queen Pothos to lose leaves. You want to move your plant away from any drafty doors, windows or AC vents.

3. Natural ageing.

   As we mentioned above with yellowing leaves, some leaf loss can be totally natural. If your plant is losing its oldest leaves that are at the top of the vine, closest to the root system then this can be the natural ageing process at work. Monitor the rate of leaf drop to make sure it’s not increasing as this would suggest there is something else going on. You also want to make sure that your Marble Queen Pothos is growing more new leaves at the bottom of the vine, than it is losing them at the top.

Causes of a drooping Marble Queen Pothos

1. Underwatering.

   The most common issue that will cause your Marble Queen Pothos to droop and become quite limp is a lack of water. This is usually one of the earlier signs and is very reversible so acting quickly is key here to prevent more permanent damage such as brown leaves. Give your Marble Queen Pothos a good watering but don’t go crazy as you don’t want to shock your plant or overwater it. You should see your Marble Queen Pothos stop drooping after a few hours or a day.

2. Shock and stress.

   nother reason that Marble Queen Pothos plants can also begin to droop due to stress and shock. This can be caused by a variety of environmental issues such as repotting, propagation, moving it to a new spot or any other sudden change in the environment. As long as the factors of sun, warmth, water and humidity are right for your plant, it should begin to stop drooping in about a week or so.

Why does my Marble Queen Pothos have curling leaves?

1. Underwatering.

   One of the main ways that Marble Queen Pothos retain moisture if they are running low is by curling their leaves. This tends to be an early warning sign that your Marble Queen Pothos is thirsty so check the moisture in the soil to confirm and adjust your watering schedule moving forward. Similarly to a drooping plant, curling leaves on your Marble Queen Pothos due to underwatering should be temporary so will begin to uncurl as you solve the issue.

2. High temperatures.

   Another cause of curling leaves is in response to prolonged heat stress. If your Marble Queen Pothos is too close to radiators, heating vents or cookers then this might be the cause of the leaves curling as they are drying out. Use a digital thermometer to monitor any extreme temperatures and move your Marble Queen Pothos to a slightly cooler spot if necessary.

3. Direct sunlight.

   As well as extreme temperatures, too much direct light can also cause your leaves to curl up in response. This can cause hotspots near windows which in turn causes heat stress. Make sure your Marble Queen Pothos isn’t receiving any intense direct sunlight during summer as this can also burn the leaves as well as cause them to curl up.

To learn more about how to care for your plant and prevent any common problems from occurring, check out our Marble Queen Pothos care guide.

These plants are one of the fussiest houseplants so it can be quite common for them to develop a whole range of issues. In this post, we will be covering 3 problems, leaf loss, drooping stems and curling leaves. We have also written a few more detailed guides on brown Maidenhair Fern leaves and yellow Maidenhair Fern leaves so check those out for more information on how to fix those problems.

Why is my Maidenhair Fern losing leaves?

1. Underwatering.

   One of the most common factors that lead Maidenhair Fern plants to lose their leaves is consistent underwatering and dry soil. This is because the roots will begin to crisp up and your plant won’t be able to keep all of its leaves and stems alive anymore. Whilst this won’t happen with just one missed watering, if your Maidenhair Fern constantly has dry soil, this can cause some real issues. Confirm the issue by measuring the moisture in the soil (either with a moisture meter or the chopstick method). If you have determined that your Maidenhair Fern is losing leaves because of underwatering, water your plant a little bit once a day for a week and then return to a more normal watering schedule.

2. Cold temperatures.

   Another reason why your Maidenhair Fern may be losing its leaves is due to fluctuations in temperature. Maidenhair Ferns don’t deal so well with cold temperatures and if exposed to drafts can lose quite a few leaves pretty quickly. Also, pay attention to how close they are to air conditioning vents in summer as these can be pretty harmful to your Fern as well. It’s best to use a digital thermometer to check the temperature around your Maidenhair Fern.

3. Natural shedding.

   If it’s only the oldest bottom leaves on your Maidenhair Fern that are falling off, then this may be natural ageing. It’s normal for your Maidenhair Fern to prioritise its energy on new bigger growth, meaning it will lose its oldest leaves in order to mature. As long as your Maidenhair Fern is growing more new leaves than it is losing them, then you don’t need to worry about this at all.

Causes of a drooping Maidenhair Fern

1. Underwatering.

   One of the earlier signs of a lack of water is a drooping plant. This usually happens before it loses leaves so hopefully, this means you have caught the problem early before it has caused more permanent damage. Underwatering will slowly dry out the roots, causing them to crisp up and die. Confirm this by checking the moisture in the soil and increase how often or how much you are watering your Maidenhair Fern and it should stop drooping in a few days.

2. Low humidity levels.

   If you haven’t been underwatering your Maidenhair Fern, then moisture still might be the issue, but actually in terms of humidity rather than soil moisture. Maidenhair Ferns need a humid environment and can struggle in really dry air as they have such delicate leaves that easily dry out. A lack of humidity in the air can cause the leaves to be a little limp and droop down. This won’t happen overnight though so if this has been gradually getting worse, then it’s likely humidity is the cause. Get into the habit of misting your plant each day and this should solve the problem quite quickly. If you don’t want to rely on yourself remembering to mist your Maidenhair Fern, then use a humidifier to stop it from drying out and drooping down.

3. Shock or stress.

   If you have recently repotted your Maidenhair Fern, propagated it or moved it to a new spot, then it might be stress causing it to droop. This tends to be a very temporary problem so just make sure the environmental factors and care routine are right for your plant and it should stop drooping after a few days. If your Maidenhair Fern continues to droop after 7-10 days then moisture issues are most likely to blame.

Causes of curling Maidenhair Fern leaves

1. Low humidity.

   Alongside drooping stems, low humidity can also cause the leaves on your Maidenhair Fern to curl up. This is because curling their leaves is one way that plants try to retain as much moisture as possible. This is fully reversible by giving the humidity a boost so we recommend misting your plant frequently, using a pebble tray or investing in a humidifier to stop the curling leaves from turning into a more serious problem.

2. Underwatering.

   Another common reason Maidenhair Ferns curl their leaves is in response to a lack of moisture in the soil, rather than just the air. By curling up, your plant is reducing the moisture lost through its leaves. Check the soil to see if it feels dry (use a moisture meter, the chopstick or finger method if you don’t want to remove the entire plant from its pot) and increase watering frequency. You should then see the leaves on your Maidenhair Fern start to uncurl over the next few days and keeping a consistent watering pattern will help to prevent them from curling again in future.

To learn more about what care requirements your plant needs, check out our Maidenhair Fern care guide.

Causes of brown leaves and stems on a Lucky Bamboo

1. Disease and bacterial issues. Usually, with houseplants, brown leaves can be caused by overwatering. However, Lucky Bamboo plants are usually grown in water so the issue is actually caused by problems within the water, such as bacteria developing in stagnant water. If it is only the leaves that are brown, then you can probably revive your plant by switching out the water. However, if your Lucky Bamboo stem has turned brown then this isn’t a good sign and means that your plant is dying or already dead.

2. Lack of water. If the container that your Lucky Bamboo is growing in has run out of water, then this is most likely the cause of the brown leaves. Lucky Bamboo plants need moisture to thrive and will very quickly develop brown leaves. The best thing to do is remove the brown parts of the plant and top up the container with water to see if there is a chance at reviving your plant.

3. Lack of sunlight. Although they are adaptable to a range of environments, your Lucky Bamboo will struggle in really low light areas. This can over time cause them to develop brown leaves and generally look quite leggy. To solve the issue, move your Lucky Bamboo to a slightly sunnier spot and hopefully, this should prevent any more brown leaves.

4. Pests. If you have noticed brown spots on your Lucky Bamboo then it might be caused by pests. Give your plant a good once over with a magnifying glass and you should be able to see any insects. If you do spot any, isolate your plant and treat it with neem oil. If the issue has been going on for a while, and the pests have really moved in, you might not be able to fix the issue.

Causes of yellow Lucky Bamboo leaves and stems (already dead)

1. Bacteria issues. Similarly to brown leaves, yellow Lucky Bamboo leaves and stems can also indicate bacterial problems. This tends to happen if you don’t refresh the water very often. If there is just the odd yellow leaf, then remove it and place your Lucky Bamboo in fresh water. However, if the majority of the stem has turned yellow then this means your plant is already dead and there is no turning back.

2. Lack of water. If all of the water has evaporated, then this lack of water might also be to blame for the yellow leaves or stem on your Lucky Bamboo. The same principle applies in that if the majority of the stem is yellow then, unfortunately, this means your Lucky Bamboo is dead. If you have caught the issue early then just make sure to give your plant plenty of fresh water.

3. Over-fertilising. If you notice that the edges and tips on the leaves of your Lucky Bamboo have turned yellow then this could also be due to fertiliser issues. Either you are fertilising too often, or the fertiliser is too strong. We recommend cutting fertiliser out of your care routine altogether for at least one year. You will still see plenty of new healthy growth without fertiliser so it’s not a must for these plants.

4. Direct sunlight. If your Lucky Bamboo is turning yellow during summer and it’s receiving a lot of direct light, then the intense light might actually be causing your plant to turn yellow. This happens when the intense light burns the leaves and also causes a hotspot which isn’t great for your plant either. Although you can’t reverse the yellowing on the leaves of your Lucky Bamboo, moving it to a shadier spot will solve the issue immediately and prevent more yellowing.

Causes of a drooping Lucky Bamboo

1. Lack of water. The main reason why your Lucky Bamboo looks droopy and limp is a lack of water. They really don’t cope well if not in fresh water. If this is the only issue you can spot on your Lucky Bamboo, then you are in luck as you have caught the problem very early and you should be able to stop your plant from drooping pretty quickly. Give your plant plenty of fresh water and you should see it undroop over the next day or two.

Causes of curling leaves on a Lucky Bamboo

It can be quite a subtle problem compared to some of the rest, but if you notice the leaves on your Lucky Bamboo are curling, this does suggest a few issues.

1. Too much sunlight. One of the most common causes of curling leaves on a Lucky Bamboo is direct sunlight. It’s a natural reaction for them to curl their leaves in response to really intense light. This is usually one step before the leaf turns yellow or brown so it’s important that you move your Lucky Bamboo away from direct light and the leaves should hopefully uncurl.

2. Lack of water. Your Lucky Bamboo might also be curling its leaves because it’s thirsty. We recommend topping up the water level in the container that you grow your Lucky Bamboo to make sure that it has enough moisture. If the leaves uncurl within a day or so, then you know that was the issue. However, if the leaves are still curling then you might need to look into how the light levels change across the day to see if that’s the cause.

Those are the most common issues that plant parents face when caring for Lucky Bamboo plants. They can be quite a low maintenance plant that can happily sit there for months without needing much attention as they don’t grow in soil. However, if things aren’t right, they will show you through a variety of signs so do keep an eye on your Lucky Bamboo.

To learn more about how to care for your plant and avoid any problems showing up, check out our Lucky Bamboo care guide.

Loved for their lightning bolt leaf patterns, the Jewel Orchid is a pretty unique houseplant! Their incredible leaves do come at a cost though as they can be a little fussy about their care and environment meaning it’s not uncommon for issues to crop up here and there. The key to solving and treating any problems that come up is fixing the issue early after making the right diagnosis. This is why it’s super important to keep a close eye on all of your plants to spot any early warning signs.

In this post we will cover several of the most common problems that can occur with Jewel Orchids, ensuring that you have the right methods to get your plant back to full health. We’ve also written a complete guide on how to treat brown leaves on Jewel Orchids that might be helpful too.

Causes of yellow Jewel Orchid leaves

1. Overwatering.

   Too much water tends to be the most common reason why Jewel Orchids develop yellow leaves so we recommend starting here when looking to diagnose the issue. Check your Jewel Orchid’s soil straight away to see if it is waterlogged and replace it with fresh potting mix to allow the roots to recover. We also recommend trimming away the rotting roots as they won’t recover. To avoid the problem causing more yellow leaves in future, make sure you are checking the moisture levels in the soil before watering to ensure that the soil has had enough time to dry out.

2. Sunburn.

   Although a lack of light can also cause several issues with Jewel Orchids and houseplants in general, yellow leaves can often be a consequence of too much direct light. Intense sunlight will very quickly scorch and burn the leaves of your Jewel Orchid drying out and burning the leaves, causing yellow/ yellow patches. If this is the cause of the yellow leaves, trim away the scorched areas and move your Jewel Orchid to an area of your home with indirect sunlight.

3. Pests can cause yellow spots.

   A less common but more serious reason why your Jewel Orchid’s leaves are turning yellow is a pest infestation. These unwanted guests suck on the leaves, exhausting them and causing them to turn yellow and often drop from the plant.

   If you find pests on your Jewel Orchid there are a few steps you need to take immediately. Firstly, isolate the infected plant away from all of your other houseplants to stop the pests from spreading across your plants. To treat the pests on your Jewel Orchid, and prevent more yellow leaves, treat your plant with an organic insecticide.

4. Natural ageing.

   If the yellowing on your Jewel Orchid is quite slow (one or two every few months) then this might be normal and nothing to worry about. As plants mature, they will lose some of their oldest leaves to grow new bigger ones. These leaves will often turn yellow before falling from the plant.

Jewel Orchids can lose leaves for a variety of reasons

1. Overwatering.

   If you find that your Jewel Orchid is starting to lose leaves from the bottom up, then it may be a problem with the roots that’s causing the issue. Jewel Orchids don’t like super soggy soil for long periods of time as they have fairly delicate roots in comparison to a lot of other houseplants.

   If the roots start to rot the plant can become unstable and can’t get the needed nutrients from its root system. Confirm the issue by checking the soil moisture as well as seeing if the roots have started to rot. They will be quite soft and dark in colour if they have. Replace any waterlogged soil, trim away the rotten roots and make sure to cut back on how much or how frequently you are watering your Jewel Orchid.

2. Shock and stress.

   Your Jewel Orchid might also be losing leaves due to environmental stress. This can happen after propagation, repotting, moving your plant to a new spot or any other sudden change in environment.

   As long as the crucial elements like light, warmth, humidity and water are right for your Jewel Orchid, the loss of leaves should be temporary. Monitor the leaf drop rate and if your Jewel Orchid is still losing leaves after a few weeks, this might suggest something else is wrong.

3. Cold temperatures.

   Jewel Orchids will survive well in rooms with average room temperature but can be quite sensitive to cold temperatures which can cause their leaves to fall off in response. Make sure to draft proof any doors and windows that are near to your Jewel Orchid to avoid cold drafts coming in from outside.

   If your Jewel Orchid is losing leaves in summer, cold temperatures is probably the last thing you think of. However, it could be due to close proximity to any AC vents so watch out for those. We strongly recommend using a digital thermometer if you don’t already to monitor any temperature fluctuations.

Why does my Jewel Orchid have curling leaves?

1. Underwatering.

   One of the ways that plants try to retain moisture is by curling their leaves. This is why a lack of water is the first thing you should look for when you spot this problem occurring on your Jewel Orchid. Check the moisture levels in the soil and see if the roots have started to crisp up. This would suggest that the issue has been going on for a while so it’s important to act quickly.

   But before you pour a bucket full of water over your plant, it’s important that you solve this problem slowly or otherwise you might cause shock and stress for your Jewel Orchid. Slowly reintroduce water over the course of a week and the leaves should slowly uncurl.

2. Low humidity levels.

   But it’s not just a lack of moisture in the soil that can cause your Jewel Orchid to develop curling leaves, but a lack of moisture in the air can have a similar impact. Dry air will over time start to dry out the leaves on your plant and one of the earlier warning signs is curling leaves. Luckily, fixing this issue is easy as you can mist your plant, bathe your plant or invest in a humidifier that’ll do all the work for you.

3. Heat stress.

   Outside of moisture, another common reason why Jewel Orchids start curling their leaves is in response to a constant stream of hot air. This will usually happen if your plant is either too close to a window that is getting a lot of direct sun or too close to radiators or cookers. Use a digital thermometer to monitor the temperature around your plant as this will tell you pretty quickly if heat stress is the cause of the curling leaves.

Why is my Jewel Orchid plant drooping?

1. Underwatering.

   Consistent underwatering can lead to a variety of serious issues if not solved in time, but even just the occasional underwatering can result in drooping leaves as an early sign. Confirm the issue before adjusting your watering schedule. You want to either cut back on how often you water your Jewel Orchid, or how much water you give it each time to avoid any more drooping in future.

2. Overwatering.

   Strangely, the opposite can also have the same impact on your plant and cause your Jewel Orchid to droop. This is because both extremes damage the root system. Check the soil to see if it is soggy or holding onto too much excess water.

   If your plant is in a reasonably warm environment you can just leave it for a couple of days to dry out a little more — but we do recommend replacing any potting mix that is completely waterlogged as you don’t want to risk more issues developing beyond drooping stems and leaves.

Check out our Jewel Orchid care guide to learn more about the care and environmental requirements to keep your plant happy and healthy.

Jade Plants are often believed to bring you luck, but one thing that is never lucky is noticing that your plant has started to develop some problems. Whether it’s yellowing on the leaves, or the entire plant drooping, it’s important to treat any problem as soon as you spot it as this will give you the best chance at reviving your Jade Plant and bringing it back to full health.

In this post, we will cover the different factors that cause yellow Jade Plant leaves, a drooping plant or curling leaves. We have also written some more detailed guides on specific issues so take a look over those if you’re experiencing brown leaves or if your Jade Plant is losing leaves.

Causes of yellow Jade Plant leaves:

1. Overwatering.

   A good rule to remember for most plants is that yellow leaves can often signify overwatering and it is our first port of call whenever diagnosing this issue. To figure out if overwatering is the reason your Jade Plant has yellow leaves, it’s important to check the moisture levels as if the soil is waterlogged, then there is a good chance the roots have started to rot. Trim away any rotten roots and replace soggy soil with fresh dry potting mix. To prevent more yellow leaves from being caused by overwatering adjust your watering schedule, either watering less frequently or cutting back on how much water you give your Jade Plant each time.

2. Pests.

   Although this is a rarer issue, pests are definitely more worrying and harder to treat. Give your plant a thorough check and if you do spot pests, treat your plant with neem oil daily for a week. We also recommend removing the worst affected leaves to try to control the problem.

3. Sunburn.

   If the yellowing on your Jade Plant’s leaves is quite patchy, rather than single leaves turning a solid yellow colour, then it may be too much intense direct sunlight that has burnt the leaves. Jade Plants like areas with bright light, but there is such thing as too much sunlight, particularly during summer. Although the burnt yellow patches are irreversible, to stop the problem from progressing further, move your Jade Plant a metre or so further away from the window in warmer months to avoid any more leaf burn.

4. Fertiliser.

   Too much fertiliser can very quickly cause scorched leaves and yellow patches, this is called fertiliser burn. Make sure you aren’t fertilising your Jade Plant during winter as your plant will be dormant. You also want to remove any fertiliser spikes and refresh the soil if you’ve mixed it in with pellets. Hold off fertilising for a good few months and make sure to use less than the recommended amount when you restart.

5. Natural ageing.

   Over time it is normal for your Jade Plant to lose some of its oldest leaves as it focuses on new bigger growth. These old leaves will first turn yellow before falling off the plant. As long as the rate of yellowing is slow and your Jade Plant is growing more leaves than are turning yellow, then this is nothing to be concerned about.

Why is my Jade Plant drooping?

1. Root rot.

   This can be pretty damaging to your plant as Jade Plants have quite sensitive and delicate roots compared to a lot of bigger plants. This means even the occasional overwatering can lead to root rot and a drooping plant. Luckily, if you can’t spot any other issues with your plant, you have probably caught the issue early. Replace the potting mix with dry mix and trim away the rotten roots.

2. Lack of sunlight.

   Another cause of drooping Jade Plant leaves is a lack of sunlight. These plants need quite a bit of sunlight to really thrive and work well in brighter rooms. The best thing to do is move your Jade Plant to a spot in your home that gets bright but indirect light. Avoid anywhere too close to windows as your plant will struggle with intense direct sunlight.

3. Environmental stress.

   Drooping leaves after repotting, propagation or moving your plant to a new spot are totally normal. Usually, this shock is temporary and if the environment and care are right for your Jade Plant, it should bounce back in a week or two and stop drooping. Keep an eye on your Jade Plant after repotting to make sure that the signs do not continue for too long.

Causes of curling leaves on a Jade Plant

1. Cold temperatures.

   If you notice that the leaves on your Jade Plant have started to curl, then we would first recommend looking into any temperature fluctuations. Jade Plants need warmth to survive and if they are being exposed to cold airstreams this can severely impact their health. Curling leaves is often one of the earlier signs of temperature stress with Jade Plants so it’s important to act quickly to rectify the issue before it causes more permanent damage. Use a digital thermometer to check the area that your Jade Plant is in to ensure that it’s getting enough warmth.

2. Underwatering.

   If temperature isn’t the cause of the curling leaves on your Jade Plant, then you should also consider underwatering. Curling leaves are one way that plants can hold onto as much moisture as possible. Whilst they are succulent plants(meaning they deal well with dry soil), they do still need moisture to survive and can’t go weeks and weeks without a single drop of water. If you have recently forgotten to water your Jade Plant, then this is most likely the cause of the curling leaves. Water your plant a little bit once a day for 3 or 4 days to moisten the soil and then return to a more normal watering schedule.

If you want to learn more about what care requirements you need for your plant, check out our Jade Plant care guide.

Although Cast Iron Plants are known for being fairly low maintenance, this doesn’t mean they are immune to the same common problems that all other plants face!

If you have noticed issues such as brown or yellow leaves, leaf loss or a drooping plant then you have come to the right place. Below you’ll find all the cases behind those main problems so you can diagnose what’s going on with your plant as well as treat the issue and stop it from causing more harm to your plant in future.

Causes of brown Cast Iron Plant leaves

1. Underwatering causes light brown leaves.

   Although it won’t die on you suddenly if you forget to water it every once in a while, or make it go a little longer without water whilst you are on holiday, consistent underwatering will start to have an impact on your Cast Iron Plant’s health.

   If you notice that your Cast Iron Plant’s leaves are turning brown and crisping up, it may be due to underwatering, as it prioritises new healthy growth over its older leaves. Stick a finger in the top few centimetres of the soil to check the moisture. If dry, you want to reintroduce frequent watering for a week or two and this should solve the problem. Moving forward, increase either how deeply you water your Cast Iron Plant each time or increase the frequency to prevent further brown leaves.

2. Low humidity can cause brown leaf tips.

   Alongside watering, it is important that you try and increase the humidity for your Cast Iron Plant to get it back to tip-top condition and stop brown leaf tips from emerging. Often our homes can have quite dry air, especially in the winter months when we have the heating on for most of the day.

   A lack of humidity in the air can cause the leaves to be a little limp, droop down, and turn dry, brown and crispy from the tips up. To solve the issue, invest in a humidifier and mist your plant every few days.

3. Overwatering can cause dark brown leaves.

   They hate sitting in puddles of water so you need to ensure you have good drainage and do not give them too much water at once as this can lead to waterlogged soil.

   Overwatering can very quickly lead to root rot which is very harmful to your Plant. If you think you might have overwatered your Cast Iron Plant it’s important to check the soil right away and change it out completely if necessary.

   Then cut back on how much or how frequently you water your plant to prevent further brown leaves from developing. If you aren’t really sure about how to know if your Cast Iron Plant needs watering, we recommend picking up a moisture meter.

Why is my Cast Iron Plant losing leaves?

1. Environmental stress.

   Cast Iron Plants have nice sturdy leaves, which can sometimes make us believe they can handle any environment. Although they are less sensitive to change than a lot of other plant types, a sudden change of environment can be quite harmful to your Cast Iron Plant and they can begin losing leaves.

   They can become quite stressed and this often results in a couple of leaves being shed, most commonly the lower, older leaves are dropped in this scenario. Different lighting and humidity levels can be quite a shock to your Plant and it may take some adjusting before the new environment becomes its new comfort zone.

2. Low temperatures can also cause your Cast Iron Plant to start losing leaves.

   Cold air coming in through air conditioning vents or drafty windows can shock your plant and result in your plant shedding some of its leaves.

   It won’t cause issues from one day to the next, but over time if the cold temperatures persist, it can start to harm your plant and cause it to begin losing a few of its leaves.

   It can be difficult to notice drafts so it’s best to pick up a digital thermometer so you can keep an eye on the temperature. They’ll also help you detect hotspots that are damaging to plants, so a great investment all around!

3. It may simply be natural ageing.

   As your Cast Iron Plant matures, it may occasionally lose a lower leaf as a natural sign of the ageing process. This is absolutely nothing to worry about but make sure that you keep track of how many leaves have dropped and how often this is occurring.

   If you feel it is losing too many leaves, more than a few each month, double-check the environment around your Plant as it could be a sign of one of the issues detailed above. There is no harm in giving the soil and roots a once over to check for signs of root rot and keep an eye on any changes in light or temperature that may be affecting its health.

Why is my Cast Iron Plant drooping?

1. Underwatering is the most common cause of drooping leaves.

   Too little water can harm your Cast Iron Plant in more ways than one, but a drooping plant is often the first sign of trouble.

   Check the soil moisture before increasing how much you water your plant. Investing in a moisture meter would be a great idea, these handy little things take all of the guesswork away from watering. If you really just want a set-it and forget-it solution, getting a self-watering pot could be the one for you.

2. Overwatering can also cause droopy leaves.

   If the drooping leaves are paired with dark brown spots but the leaves aren’t crispy, then overwatering is the most probable cause.

   Cast Iron Plants are pretty hardy plants and won’t die suddenly if you overwater them once in a while. However, consistent overwatering will mean their leaves will start to droop as their roots begin to rot and turn mushy.

   If you think that you may have overwatered your Cast Iron Plant it is best to replace the soil straight away rather than just sit and wait for it to dry up over time. To prevent the issue in future, make sure to check the moisture in the soil before you water your Cast Iron Plant.

Causes of curling Cast Iron Plant leaves

1. Direct sunlight can cause curling leaves.

   Although they can adjust to a wider range of light levels compared to a lot of other houseplant types, the Cast Iron Plant can start to curl up if it receives too much direct sunlight during summer.

   This is because it not only tries to shield itself from the light but also it allows your plant to slow the moisture loss that happens when the plant is growing in a very warm environment. Luckily solving the issue is fairly easy as you just need to relocate your plant to a slightly shadier spot to prevent more curling leaves from developing.

2. Curling leaves can also indicate watering issues.

   If lighting isn’t an issue then it may be watering problems that are causing the curling leaves, particularly underwatering.

   This is because Cast Iron Plants curl their leaves to stop moisture from being lost through the leaves. Check the moisture levels in the soil and see if the roots have already crisped up (this is a sign you have been underwatering for a while). Moving forward, adjust either how much water you give your Cast Iron Plant each time or how frequently you water them.

Those are the most common problems that impact Cast Iron Plants. It’s important to catch problems as early as possible to make it easier and quicker to get your plant back to full health. This is why in future we recommend giving your Cast Iron Plant and other houseplants a regular check-up to spot any early warning signs before they have developed into full problems.

To learn more about how to keep your plant happy and healthy, check out our Cast Iron Plant care guide.

One of our personal favourite plants, the Calathea Triostar adds that little splash of deep purple to a sea of green. Whilst they are super fast growers in summer, these plants aren’t always the most laid back and it can be quite common to see a few issues pop up from time to time. From brown or yellow leaves to drooping and curling leaves, we have experienced it all with our Calathea Triostar but as long as you catch the issue early, you should have no problem reviving it.

In this post, we will go over the various causes of the most common problems plant parents face with Calathea Triostar, as well as how to best solve the issue and stop it from occurring again.

Top Causes of Brown Calathea Triostar Leaves:

1. Low humidity can cause brown leaf tips and edges.

   It’s often forgotten but high humidity is a key care requirement for Calathea Triostar plants and dry air can commonly cause them to develop brown leaf tips and edges. Although there is no way of reversing the leaves once they have turned brown, fixing the issue of dry air is quite a simple one. There are a few ways you can go about boosting the humidity, from misting to bathing, using a pebble tray and even just buying a humidifier. We recommend trying out a few of these methods to see what works best for you and your plant.

2. Underwatering.

   Another factor to consider when diagnosing the brown leaves on your Calathea Triostar is a lack of water. Over time it can be really harmful to your Calathea Triostar and cause it to develop light brown crispy leaves. Crispy roots are a sign that underwatering has been going on for a while so you might want to check these over too to confirm the problem. To solve the issue, slowly reintroduce water over the next few days and adjust your watering schedule moving forward to stop more brown leaves from developing.

3. Cold temperatures.

   It’s really important that you keep your Calathea Triostar away from areas that are often drafty during winter as the cold air from outside can damage your plant’s health. But it’s not just winter that you need to be concerned about as air conditioning vents can also shock your plant and cause brown leaves. Pick up a digital thermometer to monitor any temperature fluctuations.

4. Chemical sensitivity.

   Although a rare and often difficult to diagnose issue, if your Calathea Triostar has brown leaf tips and the issue isn’t humidity, then you should also consider sensitivity to chemicals in the tap water. If you live in a hard water area, then the high level of salts, chlorine and fluoride can build up in the soil and suffocate the roots, causing brown leaf tips and spots. This process is very slow and will start off as one small brown tip before progressing over the course of a few months, so if your Calathea Triostar has developed brown leaves quickly, then this won’t be the reason. To solve the issue, use purified water or collected rainwater.

Causes of Yellow Leaves on a Calathea Triostar:

1. Overwatering.

   The most common cause of yellow leaves on a Calathea Triostar is overwatering. If the roots are sitting in waterlogged soil for quite some time, it can lead the roots to rot, starving your plant of needed nutrients, oxygen and ironically, moisture. Measure the moisture in the soil and replace it if needed to prevent more yellow leaves from developing. In future, to prevent any more yellow foliage, make sure that the potting mix has time to dry out between waterings to prevent root rot.

2. Direct sunlight.

   If watering isn’t an issue with your Calathea Triostar, then it might be direct intense sunlight that is causing yellow leaves. This will usually show up as yellow burnt-like patches across the part of the plant facing the window. Although these are irreversible, moving your Calathea Triostar to a slightly shadier spot will prevent any more yellow patches from forming. You might want to think about buying a light monitor to make sure that your plant isn’t getting too much direct light.

3. Pests.

   A more worrying cause of yellow leaves is a pest infestation and this is one cause that is especially important to catch early. Give your Calathea Triostar a thorough check with a magnifying glass so you can spot any pests on your plant. Pay particular attention to the leaf undersides and stem joins. If you do spot pests on your Calathea Triostar then this is what is most likely causing the yellow leaves. Use neem oil daily for a week and isolate your plant from all other houseplants.

4. Natural ageing.

   If you can’t seem to pinpoint what is causing your Calathea Triostar to develop yellow leaves from the issues above, then it might simply be the natural ageing process. As your Calathea Triostar matures, it will often drop a few leaves in favour of growing new growth and it’s common for these leaves to turn yellow before falling off your Calathea Triostar. This is nothing for you to worry about as long as the rate of yellowing continues to be slow (slower than the rate of new healthy growth).

Why is my Calathea Triostar Losing Leaves?

1. Cold temperatures.

   Warmth is crucial to keeping a happy Calathea Triostar and a drop in temperature can cause them to drop leaves. Keep your plant away from drafty doors and windows and at least 1 metre away from air conditioning vents during summer. One way to monitor changes in the temperature is to use a digital thermometer. This will help ensure your Calathea Triostar is not being exposed to any extreme temperatures.

2. Shock or stress.

   Plants can be a bit like people in that sudden and drastic changes in their environment stress them out. This stress can cause them to drop a few leaves in response. If you have moved your plant to a new spot, or have recently repotted or divided your plant then these are all things that can cause a few leaves to fall off. The good thing about this though is that if the new environment is right for your Calathea Triostar, the stress will be temporary and you shouldn’t see your plant consistently lose leaves. Monitor the leaf loss to make sure that something else isn’t wrong.

3. Natural ageing.

   If your Calathea Triostar is only losing a few leaves each year but nothing in the environment is changing that would indicate stress, then this leaf drop might be natural. It usually happens that your Calathea Triostar will lose some of its oldest and lowest leaves. Ensure that your plant is growing more new leaves than it is losing them throughout the year and this shouldn’t be a problem.

Causes of a Drooping Calathea Triostar:

1. Overwatering.

   If your Calathea Triostar has waterlogged soil then this can cause root rot which cuts off nutrients, moisture and oxygen from your plant, causing it to droop down and look quite limp. This is often one of the earlier signs of trouble so this can hopefully mean you have caught the problem early. Inspect the potting mix and replace any soggy soil with fresh dry mix. Moving forward, make sure to allow the water to fully dry out before watering again and this should avoid not only a drooping plant but many other more extreme issues too.

2. Underwatering.

   On the other end of the spectrum, a lack of water can also cause your Calathea Triostar to droop down. Your first instinct might be to give your thirsty plant a bucket full of water but this can actually be harmful to your Calathea Triostar if the soil goes from one extreme to the other (see stress paragraphs above). Instead, you want to reintroduce watering by giving your Calathea Triostar a bit of water each day for one full week. As with overwatering, you want to make sure you are monitoring the soil moisture and adjusting your watering habits to prevent your Calathea Triostar from drooping again in future.

Causes of Curling Leaves on a Calathea Triostar:

1. Natural curling.

   Calathea Triostars naturally curl their leaves at night and unfold their leaves in the morning, this is a trait of the prayer plant family and something you’ll see in most Calathea types. It can be easy to mistake this curling for an issue but as long as the leaves uncurl at some point during the day, this is totally fine.

2. Underwatering.

   If the leaves on your Calathea Triostar do not uncurl, then this would suggest that it is not natural praying but that instead, you might be underwatering. Curling up their leaves is the best way for plants to retain as much moisture as possible. Inspect the potting mix and give your Calathea Triostar plenty of water over the next few days and you should see the leaves starting to uncurl soon.

3. Temperature extremes.

   One early warning sign that your Calathea Triostar is unhappy with the temperature is curling leaves. This can happen if your plant is being exposed to both hot and cold temperatures. Although the general room temperature might feel fine, things like drafts and hotspots can occur near windows so use a digital thermometer to check that your room sits within the ideal temperature bounds.

4. Dry air can also cause curling leaves.

   These plants are lovers of high humidity and can struggle in homes with dry air. Whilst this can also cause brown leaves, one of the earlier signs is curling leaves. If this is the case, then you need to act quickly to stop the issue causing more irreversible problems for your Calathea Triostar. The best thing to do is buy a humidifier as this will take care of everything for you and keep a nice stable humidity level next to your Calathea Triostar.

Those are the most common issues you might experience when caring for a Calathea Triostar. We recommend you get into the habit of giving each of your plants a quick check when watering them to spot any issues. This will help you catch anything early, giving you the best chance at reviving your Calathea Triostar and getting it back to full health.

Check out our Calathea Triostar care guide to find out more about how to care for your plant and prevent any further problems.

Famous for their large round striped leaves, the Calathea Orbifolia is one of the trendiest houseplants right now and we couldn’t be happier to see it popping up in more and more plant shops around the world. Although they aren’t cheap, when cared for properly, these beauties will reward you with some of the most luscious growth. However, if you have started to spot problems such as brown leaves or a drooping Calathea Orbifolia, it’s important you get to the bottom of it before it completely takes over your plant.

Spotting and treating the issue early is the number one thing when it comes to saving a dying Calathea Orbifolia. In this post, we will go over the causes of various common Calathea Orbifolia problems, as well as how to treat the issue and prevent it from happening again in future.

Top Causes of Brown Calathea Orbifolia Leaves:

1. Underwatering.

   Too little water over a longer period of time can be really harmful to your Calathea Orbifolia and cause it to develop dry crispy brown leaves. Your plant will forgive you if you forget to water it every now and again but if you are consistently underwatering your plant, this is where issues will begin. Check the moisture levels in the soil and reintroduce water slowly to stop more brown leaves from developing.

2. Low humidity can cause brown tips.

   Native to the tropical rainforests of Central and South America, Calathea Orbifolia plants love a humid environment, so if your home has dry air, this can cause dry brown leaf tips and edges. Luckily, this is an easy issue to prevent progressing any further and we recommend misting your plant with a spray bottle every few days, sitting your Calathea Orbifolia in a pebble tray or using a humidifier to keep a nice stable humidity level.

3. Chemical sensitivity.

   Although this is quite a rare issue, if your Calathea Orbifolia has brown leaf tips and the issue isn’t humidity, then you should also consider sensitivity to chemicals in the tap water. The salts, chlorine and fluoride that are found in tap water can build up in the soil and suffocate the roots, thus turning the leaves brown. This is a very slow process so you won’t see brown leaf tips occurring everywhere overnight but you live in a hard water area, we recommend using rainwater or filtered water for your Calathea Orbifolia.

4. Cold temperatures.

   It’s really important that you keep your Calathea Orbifolia away from areas that are often drafty, for example, drafty doors or windows as during winter, the cold air from outside can severely damage your plant. But it’s not just over winter that a drop in temperature can cause brown leaves on your Calathea Orbifolia as air conditioning vents can have a similar impact so be wary of these too.

Causes of Yellow Calathea Orbifolia Leaves:

1. Overwatering.

   Too much water is the most common factor in why Calathea Orbifolia plants turn yellow and this is where we would always start when diagnosing this issue. Waterlogged soil can very quickly lead to root rot which prevents your Calathea Orbifolia from getting any of the needed nutrients, which in turn leads to yellow leaves. Measure the moisture in the soil and replace it if needed. Don’t wait for the soil to dry out naturally as this risks more damage to your already suffering Calathea Orbifolia. In future, make sure that the soil has time to dry out between waterings to prevent root rot.

2. Direct sunlight.

   If watering isn’t an issue with your Calathea Orbifolia, then you must consider other causes, such as direct intense sunlight. During summer, if your Calathea Orbifolia is too close to the window and is receiving a lot of direct light, this can lead to the leaves burning and developing yellow patches. Although these are irreversible, moving your Calathea Orbifolia to a slightly shadier spot will prevent any more yellow patches from forming.

3. Pests.

   Whilst rarer than some of the other problems, your Calathea Orbifolia’s leaves may be developing yellow patches or spots due to a pest infestation. Give your plant a thorough check with a magnifying glass so you can spot any pests crawling around on the leaves. To treat the issue, spray your plant with neem oil daily for a week. We also recommend removing the worst affected leaves to try to control growth of the infestation.

4. Natural ageing.

   If none of the above causes fit with what is happening with your plant, then you might be lucky and the yellowing is just part of the natural cycle. As your Calathea Orbifolia matures, it’s normal for it to lose a leaf or two each year as it prioritises that energy for new growth. Before dropping the leaf, it will often turn yellow first. This is nothing for you to worry about as long as the rate of yellowing is slow (slower than the rate of new healthy growth).

Calathea Orbifolias can Lose Leaves for a Variety of Reasons:

1. Cold temperatures.

   Extreme temperatures and drafts can also be very harmful and this can definitely be why your Calathea Orbifolia is losing leaves. Move your Calathea Orbifolia away from any drafts coming through windows and ensure they are at least one meter away from any air conditioning or heating vents/radiators. We recommend picking up a digital thermometer to check the temperature across the day and night in various spots in your home.

2. Shock or stress.

   It’s not just cold temperatures that can shock your Calathea Orbifolia but any sudden change in environment. For example, repotting, propagating, moving house or simply moving to a new spot in your home can all be causes of stress for plants and may result in a few leaves falling off. Shock is never really a long-term cause of leaf drop in Calathea Orbifolia plants so the initial shock should wear off over a few days.

3. Natural ageing.

   If your Calathea Orbifolia is only losing a few leaves each year but nothing in the environment is changing that would indicate stress, then this leaf drop might be natural. This happens when your plant needs to focus its energy on growing new growth so will lose some of its smallest and oldest leaves. Ensure that your plant is growing more new leaves than it is losing them throughout the year and things should be fine.

Why is my Calathea Orbifolia Drooping?

1. Underwatering.

   Although a lack of water can cause brown leaves on your Calathea Orbifolia, one of the earlier warning signs that your plant is thirsty is dropping leaves and stems. Your first instinct might be to give your thirsty plant a bucket full of water but this can actually be harmful to your Calathea Orbifolia if the soil goes from one extreme to the other. Instead, you want to reintroduce watering by giving your plant a little bit once a day for a week. This ensures the soil gets a nice even soak and doesn’t shock your plant. Over time it’s important to keep an eye on how much you are watering your Calathea Orbifolia by checking the moisture in the soil frequently.

2. Overwatering.

   Yes, both extremes can cause the same issue and that is because both can cause root rot which cuts off nutrients, moisture and oxygen from your plant, causing it to droop. Check the soil to see if it is soggy or holding onto too much excess water and replace the wet soil with fresh mix to allow your Calathea Orbifolia to recover. Never wait for it to naturally dry out as you risk too much damage which can make reviving your plant tricky.

Causes of Curling Leaves on a Calathea Orbifolia:

1. Natural curling.

   As part of the Calathea family, Calathea Orbifolias naturally curl their leaves at night and unfold their leaves in the morning. This might not be as extreme as other Calathea/Prayer Plant types but it happens more than you would imagine. It can be easy to mistake this curling for an issue, but monitor how the leaves move and see if you can spot some other issues alongside the curling leaves to see if there’s something wrong with your Calathea Orbifolia.

2. Underwatering.

   If the leaves are not uncurling, then this would suggest it is not natural praying but that instead, your Calathea Orbifolia might be struggling with a lack of moisture. Your plant will curl up its leaves in response as this is the best way to retain as much moisture as possible. Inspect the potting mix and give your Calathea Orbifolia plenty of water over the next few days and you should see the leaves starting to uncurl soon.

3. Temperature extremes.

   If you’ve checked the potting mix and there aren’t any issues with the moisture levels, then high heat might be why your Calathea Orbifolia has curling leaves. Although they thrive in warm environments, intense hotspots can dry out the plant and cause it to curl up. Use a digital thermometer to check that your room sits within the ideal temperature bounds and if needed, adjust your plant’s positioning away from the window and you should start to see the leaves uncurl.

4. Low humidity.

   Calathea Orbifolia plants need high humidity levels or you will notice a range of issues including curling leaves. This will often be the precursor to brown leaf edges so you want to fix it before it gets to that stage as brown leaves are irreversible. We recommend picking up a humidity monitor and getting into the habit of regularly misting your plant to make sure the curling leaves don’t develop into a more serious issue.

Those are the most common issues you will experience with Calathea Orbifolia plants. The key to preventing the issue from taking over your plant is catching it early and taking the right steps to solve it. The longer the issue progresses, the more it damages not only the root system but the stems and leaves as well and reviving your plant will only become more difficult.

To learn more about how to best care for your plant and avoid any of these issues cropping up, check out our Calathea Orbifolia care guide.

With their large striking leaves, the Calathea Medallion is definitely a crowd pleaser and is a great way to add a little something special to every room. However, it can be pretty concerning when you discover that your beloved plant is showing signs of distress and unhappiness and you don’t know what’s causing it.

Below you will find an outline of the different causes of the most common problems you might find with a Calathea Medallion so you can not only properly diagnose the issue, but treat it in the right way and stop it from completely taking over your plant.

Top Causes of Brown Calathea Medallion Leaves:

1. Low humidity.

   Humidity is one of the key factors to your Calathea Medallion’s health but it’s often forgotten. All Calathea varieties need a higher than average humidity level to thrive and dry air can sometimes cause brown leaf tips or edges. It’s unlikely that humidity issues will turn the entire leaf brown though. Luckily, fixing the issue of dry air can be quite simple. We recommend misting the leaves several times a week as well as investing in a humidifier to give the room a good boost. You can also try things such as pebble trays or moving your Calathea Medallion into the bathroom.

2. Underwatering.

   Another factor to consider when diagnosing brown leaves on your Calathea Medallion is consistent underwatering. Whilst your plant won’t turn brown after the occasional missed watering if the issue persists for a few weeks, you will start to see the leaves on your Calathea Medallion turn light brown in colour. Confirm the issue by checking the potting mix and adjust your watering habits accordingly to ensure the root system doesn’t dry out for long periods of time.

3. Low temperatures.

   It’s really important that you keep your Calathea Medallion away from cold drafts caused by cracks in windows or external doors as well as air conditioning vents that can be quite harmful to plants during summer. Pick up a digital thermometer if you don’t already have one to monitor any temperature fluctuations.

4. Chemical sensitivity.

   If none of the other issues seem to explain why your Calathea Medallion has developed brown leaves, then it might be sensitivity to tap water that is causing it. If you live in a hard water area, the water you give your plant may be high in fluoride, chlorine and salts and these can build up around the roots of your plant, causing it to develop brown leaves. This process is very slow and will start off as one small brown tip before progressing over the course of a few months to a year. To stop this issue from causing any more brown leaves, use purified water or collected rainwater.

Causes of Yellow Leaves on a Calathea Medallion:

1. Too much water.

   The most common cause of yellow leaves on a Calathea Medallion is overwatering. If the roots are sitting in waterlogged soil for a few weeks at a time, it can lead the roots to rot, starving your plant of needed nutrients, oxygen and ironically, moisture. To check if this is the cause, take your plant out of the pot and inspect the potting mix and root system. If the soil is waterlogged, and the roots are dark in colour and mushy, then this will be the cause of the yellow leaves on your Calathea Medallion.,

2. Too much intense direct sunlight.

   This will usually show up as yellow burnt-like patches rather than entire leaves turning yellow at once. Although these yellow patches are irreversible, moving your Calathea Medallion to a slightly shadier spot will prevent any more from developing across your plant.

3. A pest infestation.

   A more worrying cause of yellow leaves is a pest infestation. You’ll want to inspect your plant immediately and move it away from any other plants (check over those too). If you do spot pests on your Calathea Medallion then this is what is most likely causing the yellow leaves as they slowly suck on the leaves and kill them. Use neem oil daily for a week and cut away the worst affected leaves.

4. The natural ageing process.

   If you can’t seem to pinpoint what is causing your Calathea Medallion to develop yellow leaves, then it might simply be due to natural causes. As your Calathea Medallion (and other houseplants) matures, it will prioritise growing bigger new growth over its oldest leave. These will then turn yellow and fall off your plant. This is nothing for you to worry about as long as the rate of yellowing continues to be slow (one or two every year).

What is Causing my Calathea Medallion to Lose Leaves?

1. Cold temperatures.

   The right temperature is critical when caring for a Calathea Medallion and a drop in temperature can cause them to lose a few leaves. The best way to monitor changes in the temperature is to use a digital thermometer. This will help ensure your Calathea Medallion is not being exposed to any particularly low temperatures.

2. Environmental shock.

   Plants can get stressed out too and sudden changes in their environment can shock them, causing a few leaves to fall off as a result. Things such as moving your plant, repotting or propagation can cause some level of stress and it can be normal for them to lose a few leaves in the days after. The important thing to note about shock is that it’s temporary and after about a week, if the environment and care is right, your Calathea Medallion shouldn’t be losing any more leaves. Monitor the leaf loss to make sure that something else isn’t causing the leaf drop.

3. Natural ageing.

   If your Calathea Medallion is only losing a few leaves each year but nothing in the environment is changing that would indicate an issue, then this leaf drop might be natural. As we mentioned above, Calathea Medallion plants can sometimes lose a few of their oldest and smallest leaves in favour of using the energy for new growth. These will usually turn yellow before falling from the plant.

Causes of a Drooping Calathea Medallion:

1. Overwatering.

   If your Calathea Medallion has waterlogged soil then this can cause root rot which cuts off nutrients, moisture and oxygen from your plant, causing it to droop down and look quite limp. This is often one of the earlier signs of trouble so this can hopefully mean you have caught the problem early. Inspect the potting mix and replace any soggy soil with fresh dry mix. Moving forward, make sure to allow the water to fully dry out before watering again and this should avoid not only a drooping plant but many other more extreme issues too.

2. Underwatering.

   On the other end of the spectrum, a lack of water can also cause your Calathea Medallion to droop down. Your first instinct might be to give your thirsty plant a bucket full of water but this can actually be harmful to your Calathea Medallion if the soil goes from one extreme to the other (see stress paragraphs above). Instead, you want to reintroduce watering by giving your Calathea Medallion a bit of water each day for one full week. As with overwatering, you want to make sure you are monitoring the soil moisture and adjusting your watering habits to prevent your Calathea Medallion from drooping again in future.

Causes of Curling Leaves on a Calathea Medallion:

1. Natural curling.

   Calathea Medallions naturally curl their leaves throughout the day which is a trait of the prayer plant family. It can be easy to mistake this curling for an issue but as long as the leaves uncurl each day, this is totally fine and you don’t need to be worried.

2. Underwatering.

   If the leaves on your Calathea Medallion do not uncurl or move at all during the day, then we would suspect that something else is wrong, potentially a lack of water. Curling up their leaves is the best way for plants to retain as much moisture as possible. Inspect the soil and give your Calathea Medallion plenty of water over the next few days and you should see the leaves uncurl.

3. Temperature extremes.

   Curling leaves can happen if your Calathea Medallion is being exposed to both hot and cold temperature extremes. Things like drafts and hotspots can really impact your plant’s health and curling leaves are often the first sign of trouble. Use a digital thermometer to check that your room sits within the ideal temperature range for your Calathea Medallion.

4. Low humidity levels.

   Calathea Medallion are lovers of high humidity and can struggle in rooms with dry air. If this is the cause then you must act quickly to prevent it from causing any irreversible problems such as brown leaves on your Calathea Medallion. The best thing to do is buy a humidifier as this will take care of keeping a stable humidity level next to your Calathea Medallion.

Those are the most common issues you might experience when caring for a Calathea Medallion. The number one thing that helps with treating these issues is catching it early in the first place as this makes reviving them a lot easier. Monitor your plants regularly, checking the leaves, stems and roots often to allow you to spot early warning signs.

Check out our Calathea Medallion care guide to find out more about how to care for your plant and prevent any further problems.